tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-87008347454343210802023-11-15T23:10:27.177-08:00I must be goingMegan Dempseyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04292741794406204726noreply@blogger.comBlogger31125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8700834745434321080.post-25502681156261374792015-03-15T08:23:00.000-07:002015-03-15T08:23:04.767-07:00Climb every mountainWe have tried to, in Beni Mellal at least.<br />
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Today we went up some stairs, climbed a small mountain, looped around to the next mountain through a lush valley, and down again through a muddy grove of olive trees.<br />
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At the top, the sun warmed our backs while a breeze cooled our faces as we rested and enjoyed the view. Can't wait to do this again tomorrow.<br />
<br />Megan Dempseyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04292741794406204726noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8700834745434321080.post-50138516304293003582015-03-14T15:04:00.002-07:002015-03-14T15:04:33.179-07:00Commencing again?Idriss and I are back in Morocco; we landed this morning and came straight out to see his family in Beni Mellal.<br />
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The heady air is extraordinarily fragrant with orange blossoms and trumpet flowers. The night sky is so clear and starry, and the mountains behind the city are still snow-capped from a cold winter. Baby lambs abound and fig trees are beginning to grow lush leaves.<br />
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In the morning, we will climb one of the foothills to a castle, beyond which we've discovered a lush and stunning valley. Then we will come home for lunch. And then we will take a long walk to the souk in town.<br />
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What I mean to say is: I am so happy to have this home away from home. To have the same mountains calling my name when we visit, to know what we are going to do every day while in Beni Mellal, to know that these walks and hikes and rituals are freeing of the mind rather than constricting.<br />
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I will be back soon with more about our trip.Megan Dempseyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04292741794406204726noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8700834745434321080.post-45114231175622258272012-04-06T14:47:00.001-07:002012-04-06T14:47:40.676-07:00Ending and commencingSince we arrived in Morocco...<br />
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Barren fig trees have grown resplendently leafy and luxurious.<br />
Snow-capped mountains have melted away, leaving endless shades of green and dirt.<br />
Ripe oranges, plucked, have given way to orange blossoms, whose fragrance delicately scents the hot, heavy air.<br />
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And me?<br />
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I've gotten to really <b>live</b> somewhere different.
To linger in cafes.
Luxuriate in a country where time feels slower. Experience a new culture from an insider perspective. Walk in the deep plush sand of the Sahara. Meet artisans carrying on ancient traditions in their crafts. Dip my toes in chilly ocean waters. Binge on pastries that cost just a quarter each.<br />
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To learn what I love in Morocco, and where I want to spend more time.<br />
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I'm lucky.<br />
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And yet. If only.<br />
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Six weeks is not really enough time to "find" yourself. That phrase I always hated, finding it so self-indulgent. I felt like big ideas about life really started flowing, but only the last few days. Or maybe it's the pressure of something ending that started them, rather than the whole amount of time away.<br />
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I'm not sure.<br />
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And so on.<br />
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Back in NY, we're starting to re-settle 3200 miles from where we lived before our trip. I'm from here, but it feels new after a decade on the West Coast. It's scary...but also exhilarating. We've got a lot of exploring ahead of us, and I'm hoping to write about it here.<br />
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Because something I did learn is that I like writing in this blog.Megan Dempseyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04292741794406204726noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8700834745434321080.post-39142693949161311652012-04-06T14:11:00.000-07:002012-04-06T14:11:44.019-07:00Mirages and OasesPretend you're driving through a desert. You see a small pond on the right side, but as you drive by, you realize it's just a mirage. But it looks so real...you aren't sure now.
A little further on, you see a sliver of a huge gorge. In the gorge is a river, and it's surrounded by an epic number of palm trees, lush green grasses and mud houses. You blink your eyes. Drive on, and it's gone. Two minutes later, it's back...and bigger. It's not a mirage. It's a date oasis, and down in the oasis it's as lush as Kauai.
Seriously...one of the coolest things ever is to drive in a brown desert and come across and oasis. Next time we come back to Morocco, we're going to stay in one and hike for a few days. In the cool, shady air down of an oasis.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/7051728873/" title="P1010451 by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="P1010451" height="480" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7267/7051728873_f5f92eb807_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/7051727813/" title="P1010443 by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="P1010443" height="480" src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5231/7051727813_1b3e0672b8_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6905638072/" title="P1010445 by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="P1010445" height="480" src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5466/6905638072_6f92ef6298_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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I'm not sure you can even tell how deep this gorge is. The oasis goes on for miles.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6905639132/" title="P1010452 by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="P1010452" height="480" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7211/6905639132_5750ae098e_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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Above are all pictures of the Ziz Valley oasis, on the road to Merzouga.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/7051729899/" title="P1010559 by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="P1010559" height="480" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7224/7051729899_1776236564_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6905640170/" title="P1010563 by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="P1010563" height="480" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7136/6905640170_c026fe34a6_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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Here is the oasis at the town of Tinghir, where the Todra Gorge is located.
Stunning, huh? There are lots of them in Morocco - if you have any tips, please share them in the comments.Megan Dempseyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04292741794406204726noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8700834745434321080.post-34541736632985017652012-03-31T15:44:00.000-07:002012-03-31T15:44:10.425-07:00Staggering cliffs at the Todra GorgeOn our return from Merzouga we got to stop (briefly) at the Todra Gorge. It's stunning and gorgeous and we want to spend more time there and in the entire region. I'm nearing the end of my trip (sniff, sniff) and will write out the whole itinerary, with potential routes and places to stay, when I'm back in the US next week. I will also show you some incredible date palm oases!<br />
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In the meantime, take a look at the staggering heights of the gorge.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/7033275519/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-31 at 10.33.26 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-31 at 10.33.26 PM" height="446" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7087/7033275519_09d4481a1a.jpg" width="331" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6887181304/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-31 at 10.33.41 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-31 at 10.33.41 PM" height="443" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7209/6887181304_66bdf79b64_z.jpg" width="591" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6887182832/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-31 at 10.33.51 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-31 at 10.33.51 PM" height="441" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7201/6887182832_5a446b4f99_z.jpg" width="592" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6887184174/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-31 at 10.33.59 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-31 at 10.33.59 PM" height="440" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7050/6887184174_35c92df2da_z.jpg" width="590" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/7033274419/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-31 at 10.33.16 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-31 at 10.33.16 PM" height="443" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7126/7033274419_4c7dac90ec_z.jpg" width="591" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6887177982/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-31 at 10.33.08 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-31 at 10.33.08 PM" height="444" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7233/6887177982_01f031be07_z.jpg" width="590" /></a>Megan Dempseyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04292741794406204726noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8700834745434321080.post-60578095173313048452012-03-29T15:44:00.001-07:002012-03-29T15:44:19.017-07:00The SaharaFleshy. Apricot. Peachy. Tawny brown. Taupe. Golden rose.
The Sahara is all of these colors depending on the light and which way you look. But mostly, it's a glimmering rose gold.
We arrived in Merzouga today and rode camels into the Sahara to see the sunset from high on the dunes. I'm pretty sure the Sahara (I keep writing Sarah) is one of the most beautiful things I've seen on earth. The wind causes ever-shifting ridges on the sand and constantly changing dunes. It's sensual. Exotic. An ocean made of sand. An endless ripple of rose gold as far as the eye can see. It's the Sahara. I just like saying it.
When I sat down to write this post, a Berber band came out onto the terrace playing Sarahian music. So, I've got a few pictures for you, but have more to share in a later post.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6881860828/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-29 at 10.30.46 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-29 at 10.30.46 PM" height="475" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7093/6881860828_ae480f08ca_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6881863328/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-29 at 10.31.26 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-29 at 10.31.26 PM" height="485" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7092/6881863328_248fe40b98_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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Different colors whichever way you look.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/7027962833/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-29 at 10.30.55 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-29 at 10.30.55 PM" height="479" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7225/7027962833_522d3df2f9_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6881862206/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-29 at 10.31.05 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-29 at 10.31.05 PM" height="476" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7129/6881862206_ba7f4bc348_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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Idriss and Amy on top of sand dunes. I think that's my favorite picture ever of Idriss. He looks so happy. We were all in such awe of this wild place.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6881860030/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-29 at 10.30.39 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-29 at 10.30.39 PM" height="477" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7130/6881860030_a699618a53_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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Our camels and guide. More to come!<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6881862750/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-29 at 10.31.15 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-29 at 10.31.15 PM" height="480" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7273/6881862750_92a251cfc0_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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I love this picture, too. I can't overemphasize the giddiness we all felt playing in the sand dunes. I can't wait to share more.Megan Dempseyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04292741794406204726noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8700834745434321080.post-5818587152764877242012-03-28T05:58:00.003-07:002012-03-28T05:58:32.422-07:00Back in Beni MellalWe're back in Beni Mellal for another visit with Idriss's parents, and Amy is with us so we took another walk into a hilltop village. The air is already pregnant with heat, and it's just the end of March. I can't imagine what it's like in the summer here.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/7023750157/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-28 at 12.46.40 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-28 at 12.46.40 PM" height="475" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7254/7023750157_24dbb190de_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/7023749373/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-28 at 12.46.17 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-28 at 12.46.17 PM" height="479" src="http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6107/7023749373_e1ab0c9cf7_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6877646044/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-28 at 12.46.10 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-28 at 12.46.10 PM" height="479" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7185/6877646044_a4e46e7639_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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We walked through a valley somehow feels both lush and dry. There are baby animals everywhere - chicks, goats, lambs, kittens.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6877648430/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-28 at 12.46.50 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-28 at 12.46.50 PM" height="482" src="http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6230/6877648430_01402d27e3_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6877649246/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-28 at 12.46.59 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-28 at 12.46.59 PM" height="480" src="http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6112/6877649246_49450a6127_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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This little dude cooperated for his close-up.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6877650658/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-28 at 12.47.22 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-28 at 12.47.22 PM" height="512" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7200/6877650658_558276cc07_z.jpg" width="377" /></a><br />
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We stopped to buy a kilo of sweet peas from this man, who grows them in his family's garden.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/7023753019/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-28 at 12.47.08 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-28 at 12.47.08 PM" height="479" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7043/7023753019_9a94174c58_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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This is the bridge over the small river, which we walked over to get from one hill to another.
Although we've been to this village before, we took a different route today and saw completely different places. It's fun to explore a place from many angles, isn't it? Like getting to do all the different trails in a park and really getting to know it.Megan Dempseyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04292741794406204726noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8700834745434321080.post-64002462909911712272012-03-27T13:46:00.004-07:002012-03-27T13:46:47.812-07:00On bougainvilleaI. just. can't. stop. staring.<br />
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It is too luscious and vibrant. A painter's palette. I want to jump into it and inhale it even though I know it doesn't have a scent.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6875783906/" title="P1010357 by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="P1010357" height="480" src="http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6105/6875783906_09e5222f09_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6875778932/" title="P1010086 by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="P1010086" height="480" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7082/6875778932_5d28244991_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6875787780/" title="P1010359 by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="P1010359" height="640" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7206/6875787780_ab6df41567_z.jpg" width="480" /></a><br />
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Hopefully there is some bougainvillea nearby that brightens your day, too.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6875790372/" title="P1010373 by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="P1010373" height="640" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7080/6875790372_8527f3d378_z.jpg" width="480" /></a><br />
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p.s. My sister is visiting. Welcome to Morocco, Amy!Megan Dempseyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04292741794406204726noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8700834745434321080.post-59233364184858732732012-03-22T13:37:00.000-07:002012-03-22T13:37:02.837-07:00Sounds of surf in Essaouira<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6860516038/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-22 at 2.06.14 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-22 at 2.06.14 PM" height="424" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7231/6860516038_1432c0a565_z.jpg" width="567" /></a><br />
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Gulls soar through the sky. Steady waves crash dramatically on cliffs and rocks, sending ocean sprays four stories up to the terrace of our guest house, wetting the camera lens and fogging up my sunglasses. Peals of laughter. The cries of birds as they dive for food. <br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6860518982/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-22 at 2.07.28 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-22 at 2.07.28 PM" height="421" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7182/6860518982_dc9e5ae571_z.jpg" width="565" /></a><br />
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The sounds of Essaouira, a little old Portuguese walled village on the southern coast of Morocco, are surf. And gulls. Festive Gnaoua music. And the haunting, furious wind. And the ocean. Did I mention the ocean?<br />
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Without a doubt, most chill place I've been in Morocco.<br />
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We even extended our stay to continue our relaxing meanders through town and on the beach. Having such a lovely little guest house helps too, I can't recommend <a href="http://www.lacasa-delmar.com/default_en.html">La Casa del Mar</a> enough. I'm in love with the hospitality, beachy-white look and delicious breakfast.<br />
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In terms of sights, we're just kind of kicking it. Every day, we walk through the medina, we walk by the ocean, we have coffee, we walk some more, and so on. Somehow this little battered village by the sea is just transfixing. Come see (and relax!) for yourself!<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/7006632211/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-22 at 2.06.55 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-22 at 2.06.55 PM" height="423" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7208/7006632211_889d00ffc3_z.jpg" width="564" /></a><br />
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Crumbling buildings in the Mellah, the old Jewish quarter.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/7006631171/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-22 at 2.06.24 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-22 at 2.06.24 PM" height="464" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7227/7006631171_d63df63d92.jpg" width="346" /></a><br />
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Idriss on the balcony of our pristine hotel.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/7006631787/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-22 at 2.06.34 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-22 at 2.06.34 PM" height="421" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7176/7006631787_2d6926746a_z.jpg" width="565" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6860517702/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-22 at 2.07.04 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-22 at 2.07.04 PM" height="420" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7043/6860517702_5e7bc7c557_z.jpg" width="562" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/7006633105/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-22 at 2.07.13 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-22 at 2.07.13 PM" height="422" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7196/7006633105_08a5865708_z.jpg" width="563" /></a><br />
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Scenes of the ancient medina.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6860519412/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-22 at 2.07.37 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-22 at 2.07.37 PM" height="423" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7187/6860519412_2b4d4429f6_z.jpg" width="562" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/7006634807/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-22 at 2.07.48 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-22 at 2.07.48 PM" height="419" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7178/7006634807_3fc45e75dd_z.jpg" width="566" /></a><br />
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The fishing boats on an afternoon too windy to head to see.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/7006635247/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-22 at 2.07.58 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-22 at 2.07.58 PM" height="424" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7265/7006635247_04978283b8_z.jpg" width="563" /></a><br />
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And old gate to the medina.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6860520838/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-22 at 2.08.09 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-22 at 2.08.09 PM" height="462" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7195/6860520838_fb91e81374.jpg" width="341" /></a><br />
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The interior wall of the medina on the left, renovated houses on the right.<br />
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Pictures can't quite capture the true spirit of the medina though, come and check it out!Megan Dempseyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04292741794406204726noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8700834745434321080.post-49351357060983723592012-03-20T14:17:00.002-07:002012-03-20T14:17:17.001-07:00ZeitounSo, we found this lovely little shop in the Marrakech medina with excellent quality tunics and such, made from linen and superbly tailored. In chatting with the shopkeeper, Nadia, we learned that her sister is the tailor. So we ordered a couple custom tunics, well, actually, by the time they're done they'll be dresses, but the point is, they're super cute and so well made. And, they'll be made custom for me to my size and specifications.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/7001057753/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-20 at 9.00.59 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-20 at 9.00.59 PM" height="522" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7087/7001057753_f142543870_z.jpg" width="393" /></a><br />
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But how does this relate to zeitoun (olives)? Well, Nadia (pictured above, with the model of tunic I'm getting) is so warm and friendly that she insisted we come for lunch at her family's small olive farm, just outside Marrakech.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/7001058409/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-20 at 9.01.05 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-20 at 9.01.05 PM" height="440" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7258/7001058409_e5b44d6562_z.jpg" width="589" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/7001058897/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-20 at 9.01.13 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-20 at 9.01.13 PM" height="444" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7097/7001058897_f1bf6bccd4_z.jpg" width="587" /></a><br />
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So buying a couple of dresses resulted in an incredible lunch of couscous in an unforgettable location. With Nadia's generous and hospitable family.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/7001059715/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-20 at 9.01.20 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-20 at 9.01.20 PM" height="435" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7185/7001059715_3f0b1cb54c_z.jpg" width="590" /></a><br />
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Nadia's little niece.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6854943058/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-20 at 9.01.28 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-20 at 9.01.28 PM" height="439" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7233/6854943058_aa348fca34_z.jpg" width="589" /></a><br />
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The view from our table, in the deep shade of an old olive tree. I can't tell you how luxurious it seemed to us city-dwellers to get to eat under a tree. It made us wish for a small farm ourselves!<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6854943496/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-20 at 9.01.45 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-20 at 9.01.45 PM" height="441" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7087/6854943496_1460133c51_z.jpg" width="588" /></a><br />
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The farm from the end of the property. The green area is food for the animals - cows, lambs, a horse and so on.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6854944132/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-20 at 9.01.54 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-20 at 9.01.54 PM" height="435" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7194/6854944132_9521e06c04_z.jpg" width="588" /></a><br />
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We had olive oil made from the olives of these beautiful trees.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6854945312/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-20 at 9.02.09 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-20 at 9.02.09 PM" height="517" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7262/6854945312_4cec727b6e_z.jpg" width="388" /></a><br />
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A fig tree is just starting to bud.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6854944784/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-20 at 9.02.01 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-20 at 9.02.01 PM" height="440" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7274/6854944784_8b04edbf16_z.jpg" width="589" /></a><br />
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Funniest of all were Nadia's nephews. The little ones are rascals and were so excited for our visit - they asked if we could stay longer. Sometimes the best times of vacation are the unplanned occasions. </div>Megan Dempseyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04292741794406204726noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8700834745434321080.post-12494356159229403162012-03-17T05:03:00.000-07:002012-03-17T05:03:00.032-07:00Taking in the Ourika ValleyWe were lucky enough to have a friend who knows the area take us up through the High Atlas and into the picturesque Ourika Valley, about an hour from Marrakech. The heart of the valley is a river, around which tiny Berber villages have sprung up with houses made from mud, taking advantage of the water in a very dry area.<br />
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I was so engrossed that I forgot to take a lot of pictures! Oops. But I have some below that show the mountains, the villages, and the river. Also along the river are numerous Moroccan restaurants, where you can sit at a plastic table by the water and eat some delicious tagines. Which of course we did. Some of the restaurants have rickety rope bridges taking you across the river to a shady seating area. We felt like Indiana Jones while crossing (it was actually a bit nerve-wracking).<br />
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The drive takes you by quite a few pottery and rug places as well. Prices are lower than in Marrakech so it's a great place to stop and shop.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6843472128/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-17 at 11.49.47 AM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-17 at 11.49.47 AM" height="445" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7188/6843472128_bfe86b98bd_z.jpg" width="595" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6843471552/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-17 at 11.49.25 AM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-17 at 11.49.25 AM" height="446" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7041/6843471552_85430c2c25_z.jpg" width="600" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6989595831/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-17 at 11.49.32 AM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-17 at 11.49.32 AM" height="446" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7182/6989595831_3c832c8214_z.jpg" width="598" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6843472424/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-17 at 11.49.54 AM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-17 at 11.49.54 AM" height="448" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7189/6843472424_70fcfc17f4_z.jpg" width="598" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6843472632/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-17 at 11.50.03 AM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-17 at 11.50.03 AM" height="438" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7208/6843472632_a3b90131ca_z.jpg" width="597" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6989596955/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-17 at 11.50.12 AM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-17 at 11.50.12 AM" height="446" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7060/6989596955_67281faf4c_z.jpg" width="596" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6843473142/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-17 at 11.50.21 AM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-17 at 11.50.21 AM" height="444" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7187/6843473142_0b8cce23b5.jpg" width="335" /></a>Megan Dempseyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04292741794406204726noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8700834745434321080.post-86174901789368289732012-03-15T09:24:00.004-07:002012-03-15T09:24:53.715-07:00Palaces and museumsWe went to two lovely museums yesterday that are former riads and palaces, the Bahia Palace and Dar si Said. In fact, visiting dignitaries still stay at the Bahia sometimes. They're remarkable even if you don't check out the exhibits, just as beautiful buildings full of the artistry that exemplifies Morocco's history. Not many words needed to describe them!<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6838829826/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-15 at 3.38.23 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-15 at 3.38.23 PM" height="408" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7068/6838829826_10abca2ca1_z.jpg" width="546" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6984952615/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-15 at 3.38.15 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-15 at 3.38.15 PM" height="410" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7178/6984952615_e26fb5b3eb_z.jpg" width="551" /></a><br />
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Even in March, the sun is so strong here, I can really understand why these shady courtyards are so necessary!<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6838830676/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-15 at 3.38.40 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-15 at 3.38.40 PM" height="401" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7040/6838830676_dfec69b2ca_z.jpg" width="543" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6984953533/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-15 at 3.38.30 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-15 at 3.38.30 PM" height="461" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7199/6984953533_fb32dbbec1.jpg" width="352" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6838831464/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-15 at 3.38.56 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-15 at 3.38.56 PM" height="405" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7043/6838831464_45bcf30cb0_z.jpg" width="547" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6838832370/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-15 at 3.39.13 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-15 at 3.39.13 PM" height="409" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7193/6838832370_2aee5832a7_z.jpg" width="543" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6838834058/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-15 at 3.39.44 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-15 at 3.39.44 PM" height="400" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7065/6838834058_da1772ca69_z.jpg" width="543" /></a><br />
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I wish I could commission a painted ceiling like these. Aren't they spectacular?<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6984954251/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-15 at 3.38.47 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-15 at 3.38.47 PM" height="464" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7041/6984954251_b0a512feb5.jpg" width="348" /></a><br />
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Ditto for painted doors.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6838831892/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-15 at 3.39.04 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-15 at 3.39.04 PM" height="461" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7048/6838831892_392f81a580.jpg" width="344" /></a><br />
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Isn't this stained glass window pretty?<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6984955959/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-15 at 3.39.21 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-15 at 3.39.21 PM" height="461" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7201/6984955959_cd9158196f.jpg" width="348" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6984956503/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-15 at 3.39.30 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-15 at 3.39.30 PM" height="406" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7044/6984956503_1e073f5e64_z.jpg" width="544" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6984956877/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-15 at 3.39.36 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-15 at 3.39.36 PM" height="457" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7061/6984956877_0e983c233a.jpg" width="343" /></a><br />
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I really loved this cool little gazebo with a fountain. The Sound of Music should have used this one!Megan Dempseyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04292741794406204726noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8700834745434321080.post-90310776931781600512012-03-15T07:51:00.004-07:002012-03-15T07:51:58.468-07:00Heaven or hotel? La Mamounia...Just. the. most. beautiful. hotel. ever. That's La Mamounia. Inside the medina walls in Marrakech, it's history and legend and glamor and gardens and luxury all rolled into one. Um, well, not that I've stayed here. I just walked around the grounds with Idriss and my dear old friend Mara, who came down for the weekend from London.<br />
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The gardens overflow with citrus, olive, fig and palm trees. A large vegetable patch thrives towards the back of the grounds. Everywhere you turn are restored fountains, luscious views and luxurious calm in the heart of Marrakech.<br />
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French presidents, Winston Churchill, Sex and the City 2 and so on...they all stayed here...<br />
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OK, I need to stop blathering on. Someday we'll book in here! (hint, hint, Idriss!).<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6838593258/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-15 at 2.31.53 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-15 at 2.31.53 PM" height="480" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7186/6838593258_8fc14aca21_z.jpg" width="639" /></a><br />
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Old olive trees line the garden paths.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6984716507/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-15 at 2.32.00 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-15 at 2.32.00 PM" height="479" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7063/6984716507_e4633629d6_z.jpg" width="640" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6984716863/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-15 at 2.32.10 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-15 at 2.32.10 PM" height="479" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7067/6984716863_de3485c528_z.jpg" width="638" /></a><br />
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Fountains...arches...pristine walls...zelige tiles...traditional lighting...sigh.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6838594312/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-15 at 2.32.19 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-15 at 2.32.19 PM" height="475" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7060/6838594312_d1a6436911_z.jpg" width="634" /></a><br />
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That's Mara! Outside one of the many restaurants.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6984717475/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-15 at 2.32.26 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-15 at 2.32.26 PM" height="479" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7199/6984717475_c6f0b6966c_z.jpg" width="634" /></a><br />
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The terrace of (I think) one of the riads for rent here. Not sure if I've mentioned that virtually all of Marrakech is this color? It is a city that truly glows in sunlight.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6838595178/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-15 at 2.32.42 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-15 at 2.32.42 PM" height="547" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7190/6838595178_ea1af188ef_z.jpg" width="412" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6984718745/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-15 at 2.33.00 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-15 at 2.33.00 PM" height="476" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7067/6984718745_98833321ac_z.jpg" width="638" /></a><br />
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Scenes from a stunning pavilion...<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6984718343/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-15 at 2.32.52 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-15 at 2.32.52 PM" height="474" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7181/6984718343_1766bdb9a8_z.jpg" width="628" /></a><br />
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Idriss and I set off the lovely fountain :-)
Anyone who comes to Marrakech: come to Mamounia just to soak in the grounds, have a coffee or lunch by the pool. It's really worth it.Megan Dempseyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04292741794406204726noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8700834745434321080.post-19257499659184928002012-03-13T10:36:00.001-07:002012-03-13T10:36:40.839-07:00An oasis in Jardin MajorelleJardin Majorelle is one of my favorite places in the world. It is so simple and romantic and wandering through the gardens is meditative and relaxing. Not sure why, but it just makes me feel calm and happy. And reflective.<br />
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The gardens were created by a French man named Jacques Majorelle, in the 1920s and 30s. Later on, Yves Saint Laurent and his partner owned them, and were passionate about their upkeep. When Saint-Laurent died his ashes were scattered in the garden, and he made sure it would be open for others to admire it well into the future.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6979692407/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-13 at 5.21.24 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-13 at 5.21.24 PM" height="476" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7051/6979692407_a06927dd58_z.jpg" width="640" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6979692659/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-13 at 5.21.35 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-13 at 5.21.35 PM" height="489" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7199/6979692659_667f0aabf5.jpg" width="364" /></a><br />
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The graceful garden entrance, complete with a fountain.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6979693103/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-13 at 5.21.43 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-13 at 5.21.43 PM" height="478" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7054/6979693103_8b8a42841b_z.jpg" width="640" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6979695003/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-13 at 5.22.35 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-13 at 5.22.35 PM" height="476" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7069/6979695003_c141fddb9d_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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Different views of the villa in the garden, now a small museum.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6833566966/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-13 at 5.22.24 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-13 at 5.22.24 PM" height="460" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7200/6833566966_f4411a19b5.jpg" width="367" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6979693733/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-13 at 5.22.02 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-13 at 5.22.02 PM" height="490" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7049/6979693733_4c413ab299.jpg" width="365" /></a><br />
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The garden is full of fountains and reflecting pools. Terra cotta pots painted shades of vibrant blue, yellow, and orange line the paths.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6833565784/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-13 at 5.21.54 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-13 at 5.21.54 PM" height="491" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7183/6833565784_af68243149.jpg" width="367" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6833566668/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-13 at 5.22.14 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-13 at 5.22.14 PM" height="475" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7198/6833566668_938a2ce78b_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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The sky was impossibly blue, as it always seems to be in Marrakech. Palms tangle with other trees and shrubs for a lush experience.<br />
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Certainly this is on the top of my "must do" list for Marrakech. I hope you can visit, too. You'll love Jardin Majorelle!Megan Dempseyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04292741794406204726noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8700834745434321080.post-2342532526492993432012-03-11T16:14:00.003-07:002012-03-11T16:14:37.368-07:00Chasing flamingos in Moulay BousselhamSo, my Lonely Planet guide says not to miss the flamingos and other birds that hang out in the national park in the form of a lagoon in Moulay Bousselham. Let me be frank: it's a cute town with a gorgeous park and beach, but don't attempt visiting without a car. If you don't have a car, see the flamingos on the bus route in Oualidia.<br />
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Once we got over the trauma of travels, we hired a "guide" who took us out to see flamingos on the lagoon. I really, really wanted to see the flamingos. He told us not to pay him if we didn't see them. And we did. They're kick ass cool, I just love them. They do this kind of delicate march with one leg lifting high up, then the other meets the first leg's location, and so on. It's very graceful, and they march along in unison with the group.<br />
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So, without further ado, here are some pictures to prove we survived the train stop with no platform, grand taxis and dusty lanes and so on.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6974169215/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-11 at 11.01.52 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-11 at 11.01.52 PM" height="431" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7178/6974169215_01fef5da03_z.jpg" width="579" /></a><br />
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Boats on the lagoon, like the one we hired.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6828047792/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-11 at 11.01.44 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-11 at 11.01.44 PM" height="506" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7062/6828047792_46c95dea89_z.jpg" width="383" /></a><br />
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HQ for the eco protection agency.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6974169641/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-11 at 11.02.04 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-11 at 11.02.04 PM" height="437" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7180/6974169641_e0997b6510_z.jpg" width="574" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6828048808/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-11 at 11.02.12 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-11 at 11.02.12 PM" height="427" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7184/6828048808_b2c27e795a_z.jpg" width="574" /></a><br />
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An egret, and flamingos!!!<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6828050608/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-11 at 11.02.59 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-11 at 11.02.59 PM" height="337" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7181/6828050608_0114456f46.jpg" width="455" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6828050020/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-11 at 11.02.22 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-11 at 11.02.22 PM" height="429" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7195/6828050020_d98645e692_z.jpg" width="575" /></a><br />
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The ocean really is something, isn't it?<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6828051132/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-11 at 11.03.56 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-11 at 11.03.56 PM" height="417" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7202/6828051132_107f7fe027_z.jpg" width="559" /></a><br />
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So was the sunset...<br />
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We sure have been lucky with the weather for our trip. Keeping my fingers crossed that it holds. We're in Marrakech now, and it's downright hot during the day. Will write more about that in coming days.Megan Dempseyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04292741794406204726noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8700834745434321080.post-42803665116479836702012-03-10T01:14:00.003-08:002012-03-10T01:14:57.007-08:00The ocean meets pristine villas meets contemporary artThat's Asilah in a nutshell. A small resort town an hour south of Tangier, on the Atlantic ocean. Every summer, artists come from all over the world to paint murals on the brilliant white villas of the city. I've heard it described as the Hamptons of Morocco and it's not too far off. It's just a lovely little medina to wander around and get inspired in.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6822786334/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-10 at 9.04.58 AM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-10 at 9.04.58 AM" height="478" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7179/6822786334_5e9d451f70_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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The seaboard of the city.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6968908875/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-10 at 9.04.03 AM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-10 at 9.04.03 AM" height="478" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7063/6968908875_d129ecc248.jpg" width="358" /></a>
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Like Chefhouen, the city has blue accents on many buildings.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6822786520/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-10 at 9.05.09 AM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-10 at 9.05.09 AM" height="476" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7066/6822786520_1f2834a2fe_z.jpg" width="639" /></a><br />
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Some places really have it all...<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6968909979/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-10 at 9.05.17 AM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-10 at 9.05.17 AM" height="474" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7198/6968909979_45fb89fe37_z.jpg" width="640" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6822785820/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-10 at 9.04.09 AM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-10 at 9.04.09 AM" height="477" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7036/6822785820_cc3c7aeac0_z.jpg" width="640" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6822785994/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-10 at 9.04.28 AM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-10 at 9.04.28 AM" height="475" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7039/6822785994_983e15e45f_z.jpg" width="640" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6968909391/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-10 at 9.04.45 AM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-10 at 9.04.45 AM" height="471" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7193/6968909391_f836ba58c5_z.jpg" width="633" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6822786972/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-10 at 9.05.27 AM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-10 at 9.05.27 AM" height="474" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7049/6822786972_f2dbc2e858_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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Some of the stunning murals that color the town.
Just a wonderful little place to relax. Can't wait to get back!Megan Dempseyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04292741794406204726noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8700834745434321080.post-81103979251922406852012-03-04T12:27:00.002-08:002012-03-04T12:27:33.787-08:00Charmed by...Tangier?I can't even believe I'm writing this post. I wanted to skip Tangier altogether, but my husband really wanted to stop. I had this vision of the city as a Moroccan tenderloin (seedy, drug and crime-addled neighborhood in San Francisco), propagated by movies, the seemingly endless warnings in guide books and so on.<br />
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And yet, it's quite lovely. It's on the corner of the Mediterranean Sea and the Atlantic Ocean, at an extremely strategic location - the Strait of Gibraltar. It's only eight miles to Spain, and the Spanish influence is evident in the beautiful old Colonial buildings (some pristine, some crumbling to pieces), the well-organized (for Morocco) urban layout, and even the food (we had paella for lunch and it was amazing!).<br />
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Tangier has the modernity and conveniences of Casablanca, an ancient medina like Fes (only smaller, less pushy, and easier to navigate) and a picture-perfect location as the crossroads to Africa. The city belongs to many countries and cultures, and that makes it a fascinating place to hang out. Making it even better are the people. Warned against them as hustlers and men on the make, we've been shocked by how helpful and pleasant residents have been.<br />
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Also, it's very reasonable compared to Fes and Marrakech, other "resort" towns in the country. We have a lovely little riad in the heart of the medina, called <a href="http://www.arouschamel.com/" target="_blank">Riad Arous Chamel</a>, which means "Bride of the North"; it has wonderful and attentive staff, one of whom came to meet us at our taxi a ten-minute walk away to make sure we found the place easily.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6953284131/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-04 at 8.12.26 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-04 at 8.12.26 PM" height="468" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7049/6953284131_5b5ff66983.jpg" width="352" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6807169044/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-04 at 8.11.55 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-04 at 8.11.55 PM" height="324" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7058/6807169044_a7744fbb45.jpg" width="437" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6953282913/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-04 at 8.12.04 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-04 at 8.12.04 PM" height="325" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7177/6953282913_5b7f75187c.jpg" width="441" /></a><br />
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Scenes from the medina.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6953280539/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-04 at 8.11.23 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-04 at 8.11.23 PM" height="329" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7188/6953280539_ca27696f8e.jpg" width="440" /></a><br />
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Breakfast on the roof terrace at our riad, complete with Mediterranean view (forgot to snap it, sorry).<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6953281475/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-04 at 8.11.40 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-04 at 8.11.40 PM" height="330" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7055/6953281475_c76994b091.jpg" width="442" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6953282031/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-04 at 8.11.49 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-04 at 8.11.49 PM" height="476" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7064/6953282031_abaf3037a3.jpg" width="354" /></a><br />
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Cinema Rif, a mainstay for Tanger's film crews. I think it's full of hipsters if you catch it a bit later in the day. They sell posters of movies related to Tangier.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6953283401/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-04 at 8.12.11 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-04 at 8.12.11 PM" height="470" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7067/6953283401_e295982a23.jpg" width="356" /></a><br />
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Isn't that a hilarious sign?<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6807170414/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-04 at 8.12.19 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-04 at 8.12.19 PM" height="467" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7062/6807170414_25b07c4a4d.jpg" width="354" /></a><br />
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The grand mosque.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6807167744/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-04 at 8.11.32 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-04 at 8.11.32 PM" height="330" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7061/6807167744_f6f4832d2e.jpg" width="440" /></a><br />
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An entrance into the medina.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6953279797/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-04 at 8.11.03 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-04 at 8.11.03 PM" height="470" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7202/6953279797_9cf55c89d4.jpg" width="356" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6953280117/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-04 at 8.11.11 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-04 at 8.11.11 PM" height="333" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7183/6953280117_422d7e400f.jpg" width="438" /></a><br />
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Cafe Hafa (sign and view), an old coffee shop with breathtaking views of the Mediterranean. There is also an excellent restaurant right nearby, called Posada de la Hafa (I think that's the name, it's right near the cafe) where we had a wonderful lunch. Highly recommended.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6807171202/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-04 at 8.12.34 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-04 at 8.12.34 PM" height="469" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7052/6807171202_e58297486f.jpg" width="356" /></a><br />
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A pristine hotel.<br />
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We really fell in love with Tangier - it might be tops on our list of Moroccan favorites. We'll certainly be returning in the future.
Now, we're in Asilah, a small resort-style town with a pristine medina on the Atlantic, just an hour south of Tangier. It's beautiful - will try to post about it in the next few days.Megan Dempseyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04292741794406204726noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8700834745434321080.post-1305408977645099632012-03-01T12:07:00.001-08:002012-03-01T12:07:54.792-08:00Shades of blueWe have been in Chefchaouen for two days now, an ancient Berber village nestled in the Rif mountains in the north of Morocco. It's very famous for its color - all the buildings are painted various shades of periwinkle, violet and duck egg blue. It's so different than anywhere else we've been...it's more mellow and there are more travelers from Europe here. It's a major stop on the backpacking circuit too, because it's the capital for kif (keef), also known as hashish.
Chefchaouen (Chaouen to locals) has a fascinating history. It harbored jews and muslims who were kicked out of Spain during one of the intifadas. Until the 1920s, it was closed to Christians under pain of death. Sounds hard to enforce, but since it was a walled city in the middle of the mountains, it was easy to spot anyone coming.
Idriss tells me that he feels he's not even in Morocco here. People here speak a slightly different dialect of Moroccan and they have a different accent. This part of Morocco was never colonized by the French, so Spanish and Moorish design are huge influences in the city.
We've meandered the medina streets and hiked in the Rif, which loom over the town. I think the pictures can speak for themselves as to how lovely the village is.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6944536811/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-01 at 7.47.05 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-01 at 7.47.05 PM" height="355" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7191/6944536811_ee0af768b1.jpg" width="474" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6944540049/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-01 at 7.47.14 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-01 at 7.47.14 PM" height="478" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7050/6944540049_2571c05a8d.jpg" width="361" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6798422220/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-01 at 7.46.53 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-01 at 7.46.53 PM" height="342" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7050/6798422220_11bca44cf2.jpg" width="471" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6798426898/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-01 at 7.47.24 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-01 at 7.47.24 PM" height="352" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7048/6798426898_03161bf46d.jpg" width="475" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6798414326/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-01 at 7.46.08 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-01 at 7.46.08 PM" height="354" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7199/6798414326_bc7a144869.jpg" width="475" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6944527671/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-01 at 7.46.00 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-01 at 7.46.00 PM" height="481" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7057/6944527671_3cd2dc71a7.jpg" width="356" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6944533401/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-01 at 7.46.35 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-01 at 7.46.35 PM" height="479" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7063/6944533401_c051bb97cf.jpg" width="358" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6798417006/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-01 at 7.46.25 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-01 at 7.46.25 PM" height="479" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7065/6798417006_e0ce078462.jpg" width="362" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6798420170/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-01 at 7.46.43 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-01 at 7.46.43 PM" height="356" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7207/6798420170_eecb2d6e11.jpg" width="474" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6944530637/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-01 at 7.46.16 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-01 at 7.46.16 PM" height="483" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7043/6944530637_f519f26033.jpg" width="358" /></a>Megan Dempseyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04292741794406204726noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8700834745434321080.post-19336343215994910342012-03-01T11:41:00.000-08:002012-03-01T11:41:50.036-08:00Eating on the cheapSo, I'm sure you realize that food is mostly incredible in Morocco. But food marketed to travelers is often a lot more than Moroccans pay to eat. For example, last time we stayed at Ryad Alya in Fes, we had a wonderful dinner in the salon. It was multi-course and memorable, and served in a romantic setting. It was around $30 each. Very cheap for an incredible meal in the US, but very pricey here.<br />
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So we often ask cabdrivers and women shopkeepers for recommendations. Of course, it helps to speak French or Moroccan to communicate with them, but you could probably get by with "tagine zween?" which means beautiful / delicious tagine.<br />
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We also look for restaurants where women or families are eating, which is a good sign because many Moroccan women don't eat out often but prefer to cook at home. Lots of Americans seem to have stomach problems here, and I came prepared with all sorts of meds for it, but so far (knock on wood!) I've been fine. I do drink only bottled water, and feel a bit badly about it since they don't really recycle here, but you have to do what you have to do.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6798365204/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-01 at 7.26.41 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-01 at 7.26.41 PM" height="420" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7037/6798365204_98fb7b842e_z.jpg" width="578" /></a><br />
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Our lunch (half-eaten, sorry, forgot to snap a photo at the start!), which was a chicken tagine with local peas and fava beans and french fries on top. We also had a Moroccan salad which had carrots, beets, and so on. Virtually all meals here are served with bread, since Moroccans eat with their hands, so it's a good way to bulk up a salad. This was about $4...see what I mean?<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6944480147/" title="Screen Shot 2012-03-01 at 7.26.51 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-03-01 at 7.26.51 PM" height="427" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7065/6944480147_7054136494_z.jpg" width="570" /></a><br />
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We also try to make the most of cheap foods like msimmon (that is my made up phonetic spelling), Moroccan crepes, often served with mint tea and honey. Our crepes and tea were only about $2.
It's still fun to splurge sometimes - but since we're here for six weeks, we've got to be careful. Lucky for us, we're still eating very well!Megan Dempseyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04292741794406204726noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8700834745434321080.post-85676180383654333512012-02-29T13:54:00.001-08:002012-03-03T00:38:03.870-08:00The holy cow* riadWhen Khalid from <a href="http://www.fes-ryadalya.com/en/index.html" target="_blank">Ryad Alya</a> took us on our tour of Fes riads, we lucked out because he got us in to see a private riad that's still under construction (and has been for two years). It was, well, stunning. Unbelievably so. It's a huge riad...and going to be gorgeous when all is said and done. You can judge for yourselves :-)<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6942092915/" title="Screen Shot 2012-02-29 at 9.27.09 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-02-29 at 9.27.09 PM" height="552" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7177/6942092915_c9fec1a261_z.jpg" width="413" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6942100201/" title="Screen Shot 2012-02-29 at 9.27.39 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-02-29 at 9.27.39 PM" height="444" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7039/6942100201_06ecaf9d65_z.jpg" width="597" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6942110571/" title="Screen Shot 2012-02-29 at 9.28.05 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-02-29 at 9.28.05 PM" height="549" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7189/6942110571_2518587c83_z.jpg" width="412" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6942093585/" title="Screen Shot 2012-02-29 at 9.27.19 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-02-29 at 9.27.19 PM" height="555" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7047/6942093585_83685e5c23_z.jpg" width="417" /></a><br />
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This area is going to be a pool.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6795985402/" title="Screen Shot 2012-02-29 at 9.27.31 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-02-29 at 9.27.31 PM" height="552" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7036/6795985402_e5ed6b64fd_z.jpg" width="414" /></a><br />
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Idriss and Khalid, our host.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6942106101/" title="Screen Shot 2012-02-29 at 9.27.47 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-02-29 at 9.27.47 PM" height="548" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7179/6942106101_a89b3494b4_z.jpg" width="413" /></a><br />
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A craftsman at work.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6942106985/" title="Screen Shot 2012-02-29 at 9.27.55 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-02-29 at 9.27.55 PM" height="444" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7196/6942106985_fca4f62b8f_z.jpg" width="594" /></a><br />
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Looking down towards the pool.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6796003766/" title="Screen Shot 2012-02-29 at 9.29.41 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-02-29 at 9.29.41 PM" height="640" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7198/6796003766_10546e3caa_z.jpg" width="478" /></a><br />
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The ceiling, which is retractible!
Perfect, isn't it? There are a few other riads I'd like to show you, but my internet connection is awful. I'll try later this week or weekend.<br />
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*My husband thought the previous title wasn't "professional" enough so apologies for the dorky new name!Megan Dempseyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04292741794406204726noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8700834745434321080.post-8006939356738277072012-02-28T13:48:00.000-08:002012-02-28T13:48:51.024-08:00I dreamed and went to a ryad...Don't pinch me because I don't want to wake up. I simply love <a href="http://www.fes-ryadalya.com/en/index.html" target="_blank">Ryad Alya</a> in Fes. This is the second time we've stayed and it's even lovelier than I remembered. The wonderful owner took us on a tour of ryads in the medina today, which was incredible. While I sort through those photos, I wanted to show you some of the beautiful <a href="http://www.fes-ryadalya.com/en/index.html" target="_blank">Alya</a>.<br />
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You should have high expectations for any ryad in Fes, because this is the artisanal capital of Morocco. Where men in courtyards carve ornate wood trim, and women tailor custom caftans. Craftsmen chip delicately away at zelige (handmade Moroccan tiles, pictured below) to create the beautiful mosaics found in Morocco, especially Fes.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6939335769/" title="Screen Shot 2012-02-28 at 1.33.25 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-02-28 at 1.33.25 PM" height="431" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7205/6939335769_7d739267ba_z.jpg" width="572" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6939333141/" title="Screen Shot 2012-02-28 at 1.32.22 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-02-28 at 1.32.22 PM" height="430" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7058/6939333141_5956a3b139_z.jpg" width="572" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6939336121/" title="Screen Shot 2012-02-28 at 1.33.35 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-02-28 at 1.33.35 PM" height="440" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7201/6939336121_504330e0ca.jpg" width="331" /></a><br />
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The courtyard. (and my cute husband!)<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6793221246/" title="Screen Shot 2012-02-28 at 1.32.33 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-02-28 at 1.32.33 PM" height="440" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7182/6793221246_9f8a45b600.jpg" width="331" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6793224478/" title="Screen Shot 2012-02-28 at 1.33.44 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-02-28 at 1.33.44 PM" height="431" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7178/6793224478_b0f2da9732_z.jpg" width="575" /></a><br />
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Great heights...and beautiful plasterwork.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6939334301/" title="Screen Shot 2012-02-28 at 1.32.50 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-02-28 at 1.32.50 PM" height="428" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7200/6939334301_b3f4e85e85_z.jpg" width="577" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6939334693/" title="Screen Shot 2012-02-28 at 1.32.59 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-02-28 at 1.32.59 PM" height="431" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7192/6939334693_9b6088a81b_z.jpg" width="580" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6939335047/" title="Screen Shot 2012-02-28 at 1.33.08 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-02-28 at 1.33.08 PM" height="427" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7184/6939335047_aee0279e30_z.jpg" width="574" /></a><br />
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Some of my favorite zelige (tiles) in the Ryad.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6793221658/" title="Screen Shot 2012-02-28 at 1.32.41 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-02-28 at 1.32.41 PM" height="430" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7050/6793221658_8466996aa6_z.jpg" width="579" /></a><br />
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Our yummy breakfast, with three different kinds of homemade jams!<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6793220408/" title="Screen Shot 2012-02-28 at 1.32.12 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-02-28 at 1.32.12 PM" height="429" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7049/6793220408_a58b66ec8b_z.jpg" width="576" /></a><br />
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The view of Fes from the roof terrace. See you in a day or two with pictures from the ryad tour!Megan Dempseyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04292741794406204726noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8700834745434321080.post-27839561832581599192012-02-25T05:58:00.000-08:002012-02-25T05:58:12.404-08:00Decorative MoldingsIn Morocco, practically everything for the home is made to order. Furniture, divan cushions, bedding, curtains, carpets, etc. Today Idriss and I wandered by a plaster shop which specializes in decorative moldings, which are popular and prolific here. They can be used on doorways, ceilings, windows and so on. Anywhere you can think of, really.<br />
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I really love how Moroccans still work with traditional craftsmen, often carrying on the family business, to create these elements for their homes. It's so special compared to the experience of shopping at a megastore. And it's the norm here - it's not the expensive way of doing things, it's the only way.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6928329471/" title="Screen Shot 2012-02-25 at 5.45.26 AM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-02-25 at 5.45.26 AM" height="463" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7069/6928329471_2ae82e31c6_z.jpg" width="613" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6782205972/" title="Screen Shot 2012-02-25 at 5.44.12 AM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-02-25 at 5.44.12 AM" height="459" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7191/6782205972_2778695c4a_z.jpg" width="617" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6782205972/" title="Screen Shot 2012-02-25 at 5.44.12 AM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-02-25 at 5.44.12 AM" height="459" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7191/6782205972_2778695c4a_z.jpg" width="617" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6928326415/" title="Screen Shot 2012-02-25 at 5.44.21 AM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-02-25 at 5.44.21 AM" height="466" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7196/6928326415_2b6750c014.jpg" width="345" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6928327205/" title="Screen Shot 2012-02-25 at 5.44.43 AM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-02-25 at 5.44.43 AM" height="458" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7044/6928327205_32bdb1d2f8.jpg" width="346" /></a><br />
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Views of the exterior and interior of the shop, which has a fancy ceiling, too.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6782206808/" title="Screen Shot 2012-02-25 at 5.44.33 AM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-02-25 at 5.44.33 AM" height="459" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7192/6782206808_9d5aaea874_z.jpg" width="615" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6782207510/" title="Screen Shot 2012-02-25 at 5.44.50 AM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-02-25 at 5.44.50 AM" height="461" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7055/6782207510_84b8fd82d4.jpg" width="348" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6928327817/" title="Screen Shot 2012-02-25 at 5.44.59 AM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-02-25 at 5.44.59 AM" height="459" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7182/6928327817_67a0eaf5b1.jpg" width="342" /></a><br />
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The man who works there shows us how the plasters are made using a silicone mold - very high tech!<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6782208840/" title="Screen Shot 2012-02-25 at 5.45.17 AM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-02-25 at 5.45.17 AM" height="465" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7198/6782208840_92088209be_z.jpg" width="613" /></a><br />
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This material goes into the plastic to make it sturdy. I think it's from the same plant used to weave farmer's market baskets.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6928328403/" title="Screen Shot 2012-02-25 at 5.45.09 AM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-02-25 at 5.45.09 AM" height="455" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7052/6928328403_97a1614fa0_z.jpg" width="615" /></a><br />
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I think this middle molding is my favorite...wouldn't it be fabulous to decorate a house using these?Megan Dempseyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04292741794406204726noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8700834745434321080.post-19476319941279237182012-02-25T05:25:00.002-08:002012-02-25T05:25:41.192-08:00Arabic signageIn all the big cites in Morocco, signage is dual language - French and Arabic. But in smaller, more rural areas like Beni Mellal, many stores and businesses post only Arabic signage. A bonus for us! Because it's fun to see a the beautiful script done up in lots of different typefaces and such. Some are elegant and some look a little clunky to me, but you can decide for yourself what you like vs. what you don't.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6782137286/" title="Screen Shot 2012-02-25 at 5.06.45 AM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-02-25 at 5.06.45 AM" height="480" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7041/6782137286_1ca14858d2_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
This sign is advertising land for sale, which people would buy as a group and then the property would be sub-divided for houses.<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6782141796/" title="Screen Shot 2012-02-25 at 5.08.10 AM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-02-25 at 5.08.10 AM" height="479" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7054/6782141796_224ddd3e93_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
Hair salon.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6782140414/" title="Screen Shot 2012-02-25 at 5.07.39 AM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-02-25 at 5.07.39 AM" height="477" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7057/6782140414_1e2ec89fd6_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
A calendar for the last local election.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6782141226/" title="Screen Shot 2012-02-25 at 5.07.59 AM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-02-25 at 5.07.59 AM" height="522" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7041/6782141226_914bc3f732_z.jpg" width="388" /></a><br />
Teleboutique (I think you can guess what that is).<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6782140846/" title="Screen Shot 2012-02-25 at 5.07.48 AM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-02-25 at 5.07.48 AM" height="524" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7201/6782140846_6446a50aa0_z.jpg" width="390" /></a><br />
Again, I think you can make an educated guess here!<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6928260053/" title="Screen Shot 2012-02-25 at 5.07.30 AM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-02-25 at 5.07.30 AM" height="476" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7188/6928260053_55c98e21ea_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
Street sign.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6928258889/" title="Screen Shot 2012-02-25 at 5.07.12 AM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-02-25 at 5.07.12 AM" height="469" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7057/6928258889_71bc1f90b9_z.jpg" width="640" /></a>
Annex to city hall.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6782138942/" title="Screen Shot 2012-02-25 at 5.07.20 AM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-02-25 at 5.07.20 AM" height="476" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7038/6782138942_a77c66a255_z.jpg" width="640" /></a>
Physical therapy at a medical clinic.<br />
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So what's your favorite sign? I love the teleboutique and the yellow street sign.Megan Dempseyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04292741794406204726noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8700834745434321080.post-79059705255912266612012-02-24T05:24:00.001-08:002012-02-24T05:24:31.046-08:00Rainbows and waterfallsSounds kind of too good to be true? Well, that's because you're not in Morocco. On our drive into the <i>haut </i>(high) Atlas yesterday, we went to Ouzoud, a beautiful waterfall in a lush valley in a red clay town that's picture perfect. To be honest, I didn't think it would be worthy the two hour drive. After all, I've seen plenty of stunning waterfalls before, and looking at pictures, I wasn't too excited about this one.<br />
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The drive alone was worth it.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6925609583/" title="Screen Shot 2012-02-24 at 5.04.11 AM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-02-24 at 5.04.11 AM" height="462" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7065/6925609583_1419ef8939_z.jpg" width="613" /></a><br />
Look at those beautiful snow-capped mountains!
And the falls! Boy, was I wrong. Pictures just don't capture the true majesty and grace of this spectacular spot. It's overwhelmingly stunning - and due to the lack of guard rails, you can really get up close. The <i>cascade</i> (waterfall) is so, so tall. Vibrant green moss the color of Ireland covers the clay behind the water.<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6779490198/" title="Screen Shot 2012-02-24 at 5.03.09 AM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-02-24 at 5.03.09 AM" height="518" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7070/6779490198_be4f5808d3_z.jpg" width="391" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6925607911/" title="Screen Shot 2012-02-24 at 5.03.34 AM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-02-24 at 5.03.34 AM" height="457" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7043/6925607911_d58bee8691_z.jpg" width="612" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6925607363/" title="Screen Shot 2012-02-24 at 5.03.22 AM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-02-24 at 5.03.22 AM" height="464" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7194/6925607363_754df9f1e9_z.jpg" width="616" /></a><br />
And yes, that is a rainbow. It's not photoshopped, it was out when we arrived at the falls.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6925606391/" title="Screen Shot 2012-02-24 at 5.02.50 AM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-02-24 at 5.02.50 AM" height="459" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7177/6925606391_1648ac7f97_z.jpg" width="614" /></a><br />
You can hike down one side of the waterfall and up the other, and I heartily recommend it. We had lunch at this spot halfway down, where tagines are being cooked and you look at each and select the one you want. Fast food, Moroccan style.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6779491784/" title="Screen Shot 2012-02-24 at 5.03.42 AM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-02-24 at 5.03.42 AM" height="460" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7202/6779491784_f1955ca03a_z.jpg" width="614" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6925608813/" title="Screen Shot 2012-02-24 at 5.03.53 AM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-02-24 at 5.03.53 AM" height="519" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7058/6925608813_1d7359ee87_z.jpg" width="390" /></a><br />
At the bottom, the view was even better. Then we crossed a rickety old bridge so that we could ascend the other side of the falls. Reader, I'm not going to lie to you. I was petrified in crossing. I did not want to trip and be washed away into the lower falls...but it all worked out OK. I thought, if Idriss's mom is game, I have got to get on with it. At the top on the other side, you reach peaceful olive groves and have a stupendous view of the canyon.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6779492556/" title="Screen Shot 2012-02-24 at 5.04.03 AM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-02-24 at 5.04.03 AM" height="460" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7046/6779492556_3a82030aeb_z.jpg" width="615" /></a><br />
All in all, a wonderful trip. Ouzoud has many villas for rent as well as a riad, so maybe next time we'll stay a few days. The only downside is that I didn't get to see the monkeys that hang out there (apparently they move around a lot). Next time, I will be sure to hang out until I get a picture!Megan Dempseyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04292741794406204726noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8700834745434321080.post-88336766265711456192012-02-23T13:12:00.000-08:002012-02-23T14:28:32.345-08:00More mountains & a lakeToday Idriss's parents took us on an incredible drive through the mid and high Atlas mountains.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6924169469/" title="Screen Shot 2012-02-23 at 12.53.00 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-02-23 at 12.53.00 PM" height="478" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7195/6924169469_babf66af34_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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We stopped by a lake - Bin al Ouidane - and it was stunning. <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6778056068/" title="Screen Shot 2012-02-23 at 12.53.38 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-02-23 at 12.53.38 PM" height="494" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7187/6778056068_c6b5bc03c9_z.jpg" width="640" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6778056872/" title="Screen Shot 2012-02-23 at 12.54.03 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-02-23 at 12.54.03 PM" height="479" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7068/6778056872_7d8bb30501_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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My pictures just don't seem to get the grandeur of the mountains...or the right scale. The water in the lake was turquoise, and we took a short walk by it as we were heading on to Ouzoud (next post!) which was another hour in the car. As far as the eye could see, there were only mountains. Red clay, almond trees blooming and more olive trees. And mountains. <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6778055040/" title="Screen Shot 2012-02-23 at 12.53.17 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-02-23 at 12.53.17 PM" height="488" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7202/6778055040_4d4e9c1dc5_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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We stopped to buy almonds and "organic" wild honey from this man. We also stopped to give water and oranges to a little Berber girl selling thyme by the side of the road.<br />
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At the end of our day, we stopped in a small village called Ouaouizaght (wah-we-zatt) next to the lake. <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6924175933/" title="Screen Shot 2012-02-23 at 12.54.54 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-02-23 at 12.54.54 PM" height="474" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7189/6924175933_5a27baefd9_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6924174949/" title="Screen Shot 2012-02-23 at 12.54.39 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-02-23 at 12.54.39 PM" height="474" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7177/6924174949_190f103998_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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We had homemade raib (yogurt) from a cremerie. It was delicious and only about a quarter. We also had these mini napoleons - which were light and fresh, not heavy and buttery like so many pastries. Perfect treat for a perfect day. <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/74963215@N06/6924173765/" title="Screen Shot 2012-02-23 at 12.54.20 PM by Megan Dempsey, on Flickr"><img alt="Screen Shot 2012-02-23 at 12.54.20 PM" height="490" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7042/6924173765_8e15c63f01_z.jpg" width="640" /></a>Megan Dempseyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04292741794406204726noreply@blogger.com0